Ache Ache

I'm rather taken with Mongolian gers. Actually I'm rather taken with Mongolian steppes, Mongolian ponies and Mongolian everything although this is probably not a surprise. Gers are tents made of wood and felt and are rather cosy although I kept hitting my head on the way in. In the middle was a stove that Mum used to fill the ger with smoke. I want one.

Mongolia is rather beautiful. Just rolling hills of grass in every direction. Clear blue skies. Every now and then we passed through wild thyme and could smell it. There were bazillions of bugs making a huge racket. Here and there were white gers, often with some ponies and a hairy dog barking frantically. These days there are also solar panels outside.

Mongolians are not early risers. Breakfast was not until 9 and consisted of "gumbra"- which was a fried bread with jam. Then around 11 ponies would appear, saddled, at the washing line. The first morning was spent hoisting public school girls up and so Mum and I did not leave for our day ride until after lunch. I was rather peeved-particularly as we didn't seem to have a guide yet. Basically noone was really in charge and you had to keep pointing out what you wanted to do. I dislike disorganisation.

The first ride was great though. As my nervousness evaporated I tried a trot, and then a canter. Flower was very obedient and everything was great. It has always been my life ambition to gallop across a steppe and I'm rather chuffed it has happened :)

The thing about the ponies was that they weren't used to always following the pony in front and as it's all grassland, you can ride anywhere. It was great to be able to wander away from the main group and then pottle back, or ride ahead, or wait and catch up, without my pony constantly disagreeing. The Exmoors have a route and they stick to it. The saddle was a little hard but great for keeping you in the saddle and I appreciated having something to hang onto.

We stopped off for some Airag, which is fermented mare's milk and not as bad as it sounds.

The next morning we set off again and Flower and I had a great gallop. I had now graduated onto making him go as fast as possible. Mum and Basil were still happily trotting along, neither in the mood to accelerate.

In the afternoon, however, Mum decided things hurt too much and stayed behind. Over lunch Flower perked up.

When we came to a bit where the guide suggested a canter I agreed. In Mongolia, you say "chu" to go faster and "ush" to slow down.

"Chu" I whispered. Flower shot off at full speed and I went "wheeee fun fun!". However I figured we'd better wait for the others so I hauled back on the reins. No effect. Lol Flower enjoying galloping.

"Ush!" I declared, giving another haul. If anything he went faster.

We raced past a guy peeing, who looked rather surprised.

"Ush?" faster still. I stopped saying ush. Normally it doesn't matter if you can't stop in Mongolia as there is nothing but grass in your way however in my way was a road. Still a long way off, but fast approaching. I discovered I could steer and we weaved left and right to give me some time to think of a plan. Eventually I couldn't and settled for combining Flower's growing breathlessness with pulling on the reins as much as possible. We eventually skidded to a halt, next to the road. Lol Flower.

I tried to do a calm walk but this left us behind the others and so we galloped to catch up but Flower seemed content to stop that time. The next time I went for the Hill manouevre, which involves directing the pony up a steep hill. Eventually he gets tired and stops.

We stopped off at a ger and got invited in for some airag. The ger was kitted out in rugs and brightly painted wooden beds. There was an ancient TV in the corner with a huge pair of ram's horns on top. Several photos lay around of what must have been great-grandparents and the grandpa himself in miltary days, as well as the father getting married. The son was outside bouncing around on his pony. They really can ride well.

The grandpa said I looked good galloping around. I didn't mention I had no control.

The nearest gers were home to some orphan toddlers and an Australian girl with us was working in the orphanage and so we popped over to say hello. There were about 10 kids running around in various states of undress. I had seen them earlier and wondered why there had been so many kids. One girl seemed rather knowing and took my hat and put it on her head, laughed at me and then put it back on my head. Another boy was rather pale and apparently there is some Communist exchange with Cuba and it's not just Communism that gets exchanged.

Then we set off again. I was determined Flower would calm down but as he didn't seem able to confine himself to a trot we walked. This meant we fell behind. Eventually we re-crossed the road and I gave up and boy he can accelerate! In a split second we were whizzing over the ground in a cloud of dust. We soon caught up with the others leisurely cantering and flashed by. We caught up with a guide and whizzed by. I at this point decided to get my own back and made Flower go faster as we turned up the hill to camp. He started to blow and I told him in no uncertain terms he wanted to gallop so we were carrying on galloping. Eventually we arrived in a cloud of dust, sweat and tiredness. I got off, walked him round a bit and then gave him a pat. He ignored me. Aw Flower.

So that's why everything hurts now.