A Special Shaxi Celebration

There is a St Bernard here called, most frequently, Mali. This is the Chinese for Mary but, to Americans, this sounds like their pronunciation of Molly. Thus there was a heartwarming moment on Friday where an American expressed prolonged and vocal wonderment as he had once had a St Bernard named Molly and what an amazing coincidence it was to find one here.

When Mali shakes her head, drool flies over a 5 metre radius. This is further than you would expect so a rather large number of people, despite their best efforts, still have dog drool on their trousers.

Yesterday was my 21^st birthday. This is the “flowering” birthday or something in Chinese so my cake was covered in flowers. I will never forget that cake, not because it was covered in inches of whipped cream, and decorated in a way surely even no Chinese would find tasteful, it was organised by my fellow travellers here quite spontaneously. Becka and I were playing pool before having dinner with everyone at Allen's cafe (he cooked some rather beautiful pizzas) when suddenly everyone burst into “Happy Birthday” and walked in with the monster of a cake. I blew out the candels, unfortunately not all in one go, and we all had a slice. The cake was typical shop bought-nice but not my as good as my mother's...- but I think icing supercedes whipped cream in my humble, Western opinion...

I was very, very touched by the kindness of what were strangers merely hours before. We had a lovely meal and for once, not too bad wine. They were great to talk to as, like all travellers in far flung places in China, they had, by necessity, interesting stories. One, now an Aussie, is the great great etc gradndaughter of Flora McDonald. Another teaches English in Xinjiang, which is the last place you expect to hear an expat say they work. Allen, the oowner of the cafe has perhaps the most interesting history of all, although I only heard it second hand as he is understandably reluctant to talk about it to people he doesnt know too well. In brief, he was at Tiananmen Square in 1989 and was arrested before spending some time in jail. He then emigrated to Holland and spent some time there before returning and setting up shop in one of the remotest places he could. His cafe was not large at all and was full of random objects he had received as gifts, such as a stone Buddha's head and a replica of the Last Supper. He had some French wine, which we snaffled. I'm planning to return and get him talking about his life. Although he sounds rather reticent.

During the day we went on the hostel's free weekly hike to Shibaoshan. This is a mountain that is 3000m above sea level. But as we are already at 2000m in the hostel, it was not so very far to climb. It was a lovely walk, first through farmland and small villages, where we saw about 30 people building a house that was finished by the time we got back! Then we got to the mountain itself and walked along soft sandy trails, occassionally scrambling up rocks, listening to the wind in the trees and beathing in the thick pine scent. Every now and then we'd glimpse a waterfall or some far off shrine.

Eventually, after some very steep stone stairs, we reached the carpark at the top.

A quick walk from there was a pavillion overlooking the valley of Shaxi and a path leading to the grottos. As we had climbed all the way we, and the Chinese in high heels who'd driven up, paid our 10 kuai, walked past some men building the ancient monument and viewed the grottos. The grottos are shrines that incorparate every oriental religion going including Daoism, Buddhism (Tibetan and some other other type) as well as native animistic beliefs. Those latest beliefs were best exemplified by the fertility shrine which featured a stone carving of a vagina.

In order to protect the shrines we were forbidden to take photos. These would be the same grottos vandalised by successive waves of Japanese and Cultural Revolutionaries... I fail to see what a camera, with the flash tuned off, could possibly do.

I once again failed to be remotely interested in the religious side of China. The Aussie with us was enjoying explaining all the different influences but I was left unmoved. I still remain far more intereested in China's 20^th century history.

The climb was not easy but I was pleasantly surprised that the altitude did not seem to affect me. Becka reckons she needs her inhaler more but I suppose we are not quite high enough yet. Although we are still 700m higher than the hghest point in the UK- Ben Nevis.

I have never seen so many stars in my life as last night in Shaxi. It was genuinely special.

The St Bernard just threw up on the floor.

So, after a quick skype to Sara, that was my 21^st birthday.